Had the most wonderful breakfast experience!
Yes, today was the first day of the new era (the Crown Prince is now the new Emperor), but it was breakfast that marked the new era for me.
Breakfast was included as part of my accommodation...it required a 15 minute walk. I was given a voucher to use at one of two local cafes/restaurants. Last night, I wandered in the direction of one such cafe, to find dinner (at a convenience store) and make sure of the location for breakfast. A nice (in the rain) walk along the canal towards the Pacific Ocean.
So this morning I walked in a light mist, to the cafe. It has a small 4 seater counter top area & about 6 two seater tables (plus one by the window).
I handed the envelope with what supposed to contain the voucher...but only seemed to hold the map of the cafes. No problem I said...I would be happy to pay. I should rewind a little.
I was the only non japanese speaker. And, other than the lady in charge...the only female. I ordered breakfast (set B: Egg, salad, ham, toast, tea). While it was being made, I read my book & watched the TV. It appeared to be how people were celebrating the end of one era & the beginning of a new one.
She asked where I was from (Watashi wa canadajin desu...I know, I know...I’ve shown this before)
Breakfast served...how to eat a fried egg with chopsticks? Drag it onto the toast & eat it as an open face sandwich.
Once I was done eating, the owner came over with a book on the Kumano Kodo trail. And asked how long I was staying in Tanabe and where I going next.
Brain cramp! So I looked through the book & found some of the places I was going...& how I was getting there. Today...Busu (bus). Tomorrow...walking (showed walking fingers). The next day...hmmm...boat. She tried to help...Busu? Train? I tried the sign language for boat (hands together as though cupping water & then make the “boat” bounce slightly while moving away from you). Nope. Thankfully, a fellow along the bench from me said, “boatu”. I should have known! A fair number of english words are borrowed into japanese, just by adding “u” at the end: Hotelu, busu, bieru...
Anyhow...the conversation became a group activity. Which was more entertaining than the TV, since the fellow sitting at the counter wanted to watch, what I can only assume was a soap opera.
Breakfast done, I asked how much (ikura desu ka?)...550 yen. I paid & off I went for the walk back to the machiya.
I had already started writing this, when...
About half an hour later, I heard someone outside & then knocking on the door. There was the owner of the cafe! She found the voucher inside the envelope, tracked me down (with the help of a neighbour), to return the 550 yen.
It’s the little things that make the biggest impact...
Tuesday, 30 April 2019
Day 18 - Tokushima - Kii Tanabe
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| Tokushima |
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| Views from the ferry Top: Building a bridge; Middle: fishing boat with staysail; Bottom: Bridge to the mainland |
The longer bit of the journey took us along the coast line. Palm trees and...SURFERS!
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| Surfers! |
When I reached Kii Tanabe, I was provided with an orientation session. Reviewing what I was doing for the next four days. Where I was going. Where I was staying & how I was getting everywhere. It went a long way to clearing up the rest of my itinerary.
This is the last chunk of this “leg” of the journey. It is part of the larger Kumano Kodo trail which is an ancient pilgrimage route.
They have arranged for my back pack to be shuttled between accommodations. No more shlepping it around...until I head back to Tokyo.
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| Sleeping instructions |
Monday, 29 April 2019
Day 17 - Takushima
Turning around this morning was easy...after I made a 20 point turn (kidding...was only about an 8 point turn). Two of the switch backs required me to back up to make the turn. This all before hitting the main road.
Made it relatively unscathed, driving from Ochiai to Takushima. For whatever reason, when I made a wrong turn, instead of telling me to turnaround, the GPS sent me on a loop that an hour later, brought me right back to where I started!
Today begins the first of the “one night stands” as far as sleeping accommodation is concerned. A new city/town/village every day, until I get back to Tokyo. Which will also be for just one night.
Looking forward to seeing my pack mule/sherpa...niece.
I’ve looked ahead at the weather. Looks as though the hiking is going to be a bit...damp.
Made it relatively unscathed, driving from Ochiai to Takushima. For whatever reason, when I made a wrong turn, instead of telling me to turnaround, the GPS sent me on a loop that an hour later, brought me right back to where I started!
Today begins the first of the “one night stands” as far as sleeping accommodation is concerned. A new city/town/village every day, until I get back to Tokyo. Which will also be for just one night.
Looking forward to seeing my pack mule/sherpa...niece.
I’ve looked ahead at the weather. Looks as though the hiking is going to be a bit...damp.
Sunday, 28 April 2019
Day 16 - Iya Valley (Ochiai)
Where to start, where to start...
Well, finally slept on a traditional Japanese futon. Sooooo...only had an inch of freeboard, before hitting the floor. I confess to putting an extra futon underneath. Princess & the pea & all that.
Up in the hills/mountains, it cooled off quickly. So much so, I found a use for the long underwear as part of my sleeping attire. I thought that look would ward off any unwanted attentions, but it didn’t seem to bother a rather large, unattractive beetle. I took a slipper to him & that was that!
I have been here now 24 hours...this isn’t important, other than to confirm that the town clock chimes three times a day: 6am, noon, 6pm. It doesn’t toll. I’m assuming it is time to get up, time to have the midday meal, time to stop work. Although, the latter seems to be a wasted effort this week. It is Golden Week...ten days of individual holidays. To be fair, I doubt the people in this area take any time off. Always working in their small plots of land. I did, however come across a bit of a party...think it was a somber affair...lots of drums & incense.
A local soba house has provided my dinner these last two nights. They know they are only feeding one person, but could easily have fed two last night & at least 4 tonight. I barely ate a quarter of it.
Other than walking, I didn’t go anywhere...I’m mentally preparing myself for the drive out of here, tomorrow. Think I’ll go as soon after the morning bell...make sure I don’t meet anyone on the “road”
Last laundry done for this leg of the journey!!
Well, finally slept on a traditional Japanese futon. Sooooo...only had an inch of freeboard, before hitting the floor. I confess to putting an extra futon underneath. Princess & the pea & all that.
Up in the hills/mountains, it cooled off quickly. So much so, I found a use for the long underwear as part of my sleeping attire. I thought that look would ward off any unwanted attentions, but it didn’t seem to bother a rather large, unattractive beetle. I took a slipper to him & that was that!
I have been here now 24 hours...this isn’t important, other than to confirm that the town clock chimes three times a day: 6am, noon, 6pm. It doesn’t toll. I’m assuming it is time to get up, time to have the midday meal, time to stop work. Although, the latter seems to be a wasted effort this week. It is Golden Week...ten days of individual holidays. To be fair, I doubt the people in this area take any time off. Always working in their small plots of land. I did, however come across a bit of a party...think it was a somber affair...lots of drums & incense.
A local soba house has provided my dinner these last two nights. They know they are only feeding one person, but could easily have fed two last night & at least 4 tonight. I barely ate a quarter of it.
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| Last night’s dinner |
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| Tonight’s dinner. Notice the 2l jug of broth (heating half of it) |
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| Flowers along the road, growing on/in the walls |
Saturday, 27 April 2019
Day 15 - Iya Valley
For three days...I’ll be driving the bus...well...car.
The first bit of the drive was fairly easy...didn’t take much time to re-adjust to driving on the left & right hand drive. Except for the signalling...unless people understand that the wipers swishing mean I’m turning, it’s something I’ll have to work on.
The GPS took me west from Takamatsu and then south through the Iya Valley. The guide book said it was wonderfully scenic and also not for the faint of heart. Lots of twists & turns (who can look at scenery???). The warning for sharp turns or slow down (who knows?), are white dashes before a corner on either side of the lane. You quickly learn to SLOW DOWN when you see them.
Before the Iya Valley, I was taken along a toll route. This is automatically paid by a card which was put into a reader on the dash. When I return the card, I pay the amount logged. Clever.
The speed limits...I think are merely suggestions. The first highway/toll road I was on was clearly marked 80 (kph), yet the slowest vehicle was going 100. Lots of tunnels as well...not much slowing down, there.
As I got closer to my destination (I’m actually not entirely sure where I am), the road became one lane. Not the cosy single lane you find in the north of Scotland, where you can see one lay by to the next. These require mirrors and bending light.
Once I made it to registration, I was then guided (followed in my car), to the farmhouse I’m staying in. I doubt I will leave until it is time to check out on Monday. I don’t mind that it is single track. I don’t mind that it is steep. However...there are two spots where the switch backs are so tight, that you have to back up to get around. And...I’m not entirely sure I’d find my way back to the house.
Thankfully, I brought food with me & they will bring me my dinners.
I made most of these comments to my “guide”...then stopped yapping when I turned around as saw the view.
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| View from the farmhouse |
PS - wonderfully cool here (wherever that is)...may get to use the long underwear! Nah. Probably not.
Friday, 26 April 2019
Day 14 - Okayama to Takamatsu
Well, yet another train journey under my belt. Am now on the island of Shikoku, having left Honshu.
Once in Takamatsu, I walked from the station (after dropping my day pack at the hotel) to the Ritsurin garden. It is the largest in Japan.
The temperature (finally) was more comfortable for walking. Makes me regret bringing long underwear with me. I know it will come in useful when I get to Alaska, but not so much now.
Takamatsu is a port city. So, was nice to stand next to the ocean & breathe the fresh air. Even had a bit of a view from the hotel room.
Once in Takamatsu, I walked from the station (after dropping my day pack at the hotel) to the Ritsurin garden. It is the largest in Japan.
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| Takamatsu Ritsurin garden |
The temperature (finally) was more comfortable for walking. Makes me regret bringing long underwear with me. I know it will come in useful when I get to Alaska, but not so much now.
Takamatsu is a port city. So, was nice to stand next to the ocean & breathe the fresh air. Even had a bit of a view from the hotel room.
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| Ocean view |
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| Saw this on the drinks menu…wonder what it is? |
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| Things found in every hotel room so far |
Thursday, 25 April 2019
If this is Okayama, it must be day 13
Well over halfway through this leg of the (23 day) journey. We’ve left Kyoto and now in Okayama. What a difference!
There are statues and manhole covers dedicated to the Peach Boy! He (and a dog, monkey and pheasant) removed the ogres from an island. The boy was found inside a peach...hence the name. Must have been one very big peach.
Kyoto has height limitations on buildings, no neon, and no billboards on buildings. Okayama. Not so much.
Travel here was easy...rode the shinkansen...or bullet train. My favourite mode of travel. Can a train be exciting? Even...sexy? Think...Concorde...Corvette...Space Shuttle...
Or not.
My hotel room overlooks the train station. I thought it would be a great opportunity to take a photograph of the shinkansen...but it doesn’t exude the same kind of excitement when viewed from above. I’ll have to take a picture while in the station. Truly...it sets the pulse racing when it arrives. Okay. Maybe just mine. So sleek. Aerodynamic. Futuristic.
Meh. Okay. I’ll move on.
Checked in way ahead of time, so wandered over to...not a shrine or temple, but a garden. Filled with...school children. Very, very small school children. Now that the cherry blossoms are over, it is time for the azaleas to take centre stage. Lovely.
So...catching up on other stuff...
The things in the middle of the roads (and on sidewalks) in Kanazawa? Those are sprinklers used to remove snow!
Sake is served hot, warm, room temperature or cold. Depending on the kind of sake.
Electric cars here aren’t plugged in, but parked over charging stations.
There are statues and manhole covers dedicated to the Peach Boy! He (and a dog, monkey and pheasant) removed the ogres from an island. The boy was found inside a peach...hence the name. Must have been one very big peach.
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| Left: Peach boy stature (with dog & monkey) Right: Manhole cover with Peach boy motif |
Kyoto has height limitations on buildings, no neon, and no billboards on buildings. Okayama. Not so much.
Travel here was easy...rode the shinkansen...or bullet train. My favourite mode of travel. Can a train be exciting? Even...sexy? Think...Concorde...Corvette...Space Shuttle...
Or not.
My hotel room overlooks the train station. I thought it would be a great opportunity to take a photograph of the shinkansen...but it doesn’t exude the same kind of excitement when viewed from above. I’ll have to take a picture while in the station. Truly...it sets the pulse racing when it arrives. Okay. Maybe just mine. So sleek. Aerodynamic. Futuristic.
Meh. Okay. I’ll move on.
Checked in way ahead of time, so wandered over to...not a shrine or temple, but a garden. Filled with...school children. Very, very small school children. Now that the cherry blossoms are over, it is time for the azaleas to take centre stage. Lovely.
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| Okayama Korakuen |
So...catching up on other stuff...
The things in the middle of the roads (and on sidewalks) in Kanazawa? Those are sprinklers used to remove snow!
Sake is served hot, warm, room temperature or cold. Depending on the kind of sake.
Electric cars here aren’t plugged in, but parked over charging stations.
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| Car parked over charging station |
Tuesday, 23 April 2019
Day 11 - lunch & shrine
We stopped for lunch in a little hole in the wall, down a narrow pathway. We were the only ones there & sat at the counter. There were two ladies behind the counter...older one (in her 70’s?) presumably the owner & a younger one (20’s?).
I ordered “parent & child” on rice, again. My guide had udon (noodles). Then we got to chatting. Apparently, I speak with very little accent & I speak “elegant” japanese. The Japanese government wants to increase the number of tourists to 40 million a year (!). With the increase in tourism already, the owner (a lovely lady) has been learning english for 6 years. Good for her, I say!
The food was good & the company excellent. Before we left, the owner gave me a gift of a key chain flashlight. She also wanted to give me a box of matches, which I had to refuse...very carefully, as it is an insult to refuse a gift...it is also an insult to bring a gift to someone’s house.
If anyone ever finds themselves in Kyoto, I recommend this little spot. Learn some japanese first, and you will have a wonderful, heart warming time! PS - they use phone numbers more often than addresses to navigate, here.
After lunch we headed off to another temple, shrine...and then...to the shrine to Inari, the god of business and rice production. The Messengers of Inari is the fox. Business men would come to the Fushimi Inari Taisha shrine (founded in 711) hoping to improve their business or harvest. If things went well, they donated a Torii gate or dedicated a shrine. There are over 10,000 gates & over 10,000 shrines, going up & down the mountain.
I ordered “parent & child” on rice, again. My guide had udon (noodles). Then we got to chatting. Apparently, I speak with very little accent & I speak “elegant” japanese. The Japanese government wants to increase the number of tourists to 40 million a year (!). With the increase in tourism already, the owner (a lovely lady) has been learning english for 6 years. Good for her, I say!
The food was good & the company excellent. Before we left, the owner gave me a gift of a key chain flashlight. She also wanted to give me a box of matches, which I had to refuse...very carefully, as it is an insult to refuse a gift...it is also an insult to bring a gift to someone’s house.
If anyone ever finds themselves in Kyoto, I recommend this little spot. Learn some japanese first, and you will have a wonderful, heart warming time! PS - they use phone numbers more often than addresses to navigate, here.
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| Random bamboo forest |
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| View of “tunnel” created by Torii gates |
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| Entrance to Torri gate tunnel |
Day 11 - Kyoto - Temple, Temple, Shrine
As you may have guessed from the title of today’s post, Kyoto is a city of Temples (and the occasional Shrine).
Yesterday, spent the day with a guide exploring the eastern side of Kyoto, which is bordered by hills.
I’m staying in a machiya, which is a traditional Japanese house, in the Gion district...this is near the Geisha district. No. I am not thinking of coming out of retirement & looking for a night job.
We walked from the machiya, across a canal, to the geisha area. You can tell if a house is a boarding house for geisha (older, more experienced performers) or maiko (meeko, younger), if there are many name plates above the door.
Yesterday, spent the day with a guide exploring the eastern side of Kyoto, which is bordered by hills.
I’m staying in a machiya, which is a traditional Japanese house, in the Gion district...this is near the Geisha district. No. I am not thinking of coming out of retirement & looking for a night job.
We walked from the machiya, across a canal, to the geisha area. You can tell if a house is a boarding house for geisha (older, more experienced performers) or maiko (meeko, younger), if there are many name plates above the door.
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| Left: Kyoto canal Right: Name blocks above the door |
Like Cher, they only have their first names written on the blocks.
From there, we got on a bus to take us northern most temple...the “silver” temple, its gardens & the beginning of the philosopher’s walk. Beyond this...don’t expect me to remember the names of the rest of the temples we visited!
But...it was neat to finally see dry gardens, zen gardens, as well as borrowed landscape gardens & stroll gardens.
A dry garden is just that...sand & gravel (represent water, if flat with raked patterns), rocks, which can represent mountains or the 7 bits of buddhism (you apparently aim for enlightenment, not heaven) - no flowers, to distract you.
Borrowed landscape gardens are meant to be looked at (and not strolled around as the name implies), is a planned garden which “borrows” neighbouring features. Such as using a hillside forest as a back drop.
From there, we got on a bus to take us northern most temple...the “silver” temple, its gardens & the beginning of the philosopher’s walk. Beyond this...don’t expect me to remember the names of the rest of the temples we visited!
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| Silver temple |
But...it was neat to finally see dry gardens, zen gardens, as well as borrowed landscape gardens & stroll gardens.
A dry garden is just that...sand & gravel (represent water, if flat with raked patterns), rocks, which can represent mountains or the 7 bits of buddhism (you apparently aim for enlightenment, not heaven) - no flowers, to distract you.
Borrowed landscape gardens are meant to be looked at (and not strolled around as the name implies), is a planned garden which “borrows” neighbouring features. Such as using a hillside forest as a back drop.
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| Top left: Strolling garden;Top right: borrowed garden Bottom: Zen garden |
Sunday, 21 April 2019
Day 8 & 9 Takayama dinners
Who knew, there is a limit to how long you can blather on, in a blog?!
I’m starting to have fellow feeling with the winners on Oscar night!
Most of my travelling from place to place, occurs over lunch, so by dinner time, I just want to be fed.
The hotel restaurant was fully booked (after seeing breakfast, I’m glad!).
So off I went wandering the streets. I even started following a banner for McDonald’s. But...along the way, I saw a sign for Hida beef dinner. Go down the alley, it said. So I did. Then I came upon another sign. Go down this alley. Okay.
The chef/cook was just standing outside. Not smoking. Just standing. Wasn’t sure if this was a good sign.
In I walked. It was very small, with maybe two tables near the door & a dinner/bar set up with the cooking occurring on the other side. Lots of pointing & I ordered Hida beef (200gm size), a “set” which was miso soup, rice & pickle. They pickle anything & everything here. It all depends on the region. I’ve had pickled lotus root (Tokyo), pickled cherry tomatoes (Fuji) and other stuff...that I’m not willing to ask. But at least they are all vegetables/fruits.
The beef was out of this world! I’m not sure if it was the beef or how it was cooked. But yummy.
I had originally tried to get in to the restaurant next to the hotel, the wait time could be 90 minutes. It came highly recommended, though.
So, after returning from Hida Furukama, I walked in (lunch hour...ish) to see if I could make a reservation for dinner. No. Come at 5pm. Okay.
So, I went back at 5pm. Put my name on the waiting list (only name using western characters). As soon as they started seating people, everyone there got called fairly quickly. Shoes off & up into my own dining area. The place was bigger than I thought. So big, that I was given a buzzer to ring when I was ready to order. Just meat & rice this time.
It arrived. Raw. Hmmm...then I noticed...well, I saw it earlier, but thought it was for a “hot pot” where you cook your own dinner. But it was also a wire grill. So I seared the meat - it was only about 1/4” thick, so that’s all it needed. There were sauces provided. Soy & miso. I think I now know the secret of the flavour. It is miso sauce.
Very yummy.
Not a squid or snail in sight.
I encountered the snail as part of lunch at the kenrouken garden in Kanazawa. Not as bad as the squid...but you had to pull it out of the shell (there is a technique)...no idea if it was cooked.
Perhaps I now have an allergy to snails as well as squid...
Coward!
Today, I travel to Kyoto. A long travel day...and yes, over lunch.
I’m starting to have fellow feeling with the winners on Oscar night!
Most of my travelling from place to place, occurs over lunch, so by dinner time, I just want to be fed.
The hotel restaurant was fully booked (after seeing breakfast, I’m glad!).
So off I went wandering the streets. I even started following a banner for McDonald’s. But...along the way, I saw a sign for Hida beef dinner. Go down the alley, it said. So I did. Then I came upon another sign. Go down this alley. Okay.
The chef/cook was just standing outside. Not smoking. Just standing. Wasn’t sure if this was a good sign.
In I walked. It was very small, with maybe two tables near the door & a dinner/bar set up with the cooking occurring on the other side. Lots of pointing & I ordered Hida beef (200gm size), a “set” which was miso soup, rice & pickle. They pickle anything & everything here. It all depends on the region. I’ve had pickled lotus root (Tokyo), pickled cherry tomatoes (Fuji) and other stuff...that I’m not willing to ask. But at least they are all vegetables/fruits.
The beef was out of this world! I’m not sure if it was the beef or how it was cooked. But yummy.
I had originally tried to get in to the restaurant next to the hotel, the wait time could be 90 minutes. It came highly recommended, though.
So, after returning from Hida Furukama, I walked in (lunch hour...ish) to see if I could make a reservation for dinner. No. Come at 5pm. Okay.
So, I went back at 5pm. Put my name on the waiting list (only name using western characters). As soon as they started seating people, everyone there got called fairly quickly. Shoes off & up into my own dining area. The place was bigger than I thought. So big, that I was given a buzzer to ring when I was ready to order. Just meat & rice this time.
It arrived. Raw. Hmmm...then I noticed...well, I saw it earlier, but thought it was for a “hot pot” where you cook your own dinner. But it was also a wire grill. So I seared the meat - it was only about 1/4” thick, so that’s all it needed. There were sauces provided. Soy & miso. I think I now know the secret of the flavour. It is miso sauce.
Very yummy.
Not a squid or snail in sight.
I encountered the snail as part of lunch at the kenrouken garden in Kanazawa. Not as bad as the squid...but you had to pull it out of the shell (there is a technique)...no idea if it was cooked.
Perhaps I now have an allergy to snails as well as squid...
Coward!
Today, I travel to Kyoto. A long travel day...and yes, over lunch.
Day 9 - Hida Furukawa
Yesterday was wonderful! Took a short train (both time & length) north to Hida Furukawa for a 2.5 hour bicycle tour of the area.
This was more my speed. A small, sleepy town...and no tourists. The cherry blossoms were at their height. While I walked from the train station to the bicycle tour office (Satoyama Experience), I passed men standing below/in front of a second storey...garage? They were putting away a float from the parade held the day before. Each neighbourhood has its own float which they maintain for this one parade. It seemed fairly large...and heavy. Wonder how they got it in the garage...sorry...no picture.
The town is the hub for the farming community...think...Holland Marsh. Lots of water coming down from the mountains. Every street has a small channel running along it. Some large enough for Koi/carp. There are massive slip ways for the run off. During the summer, these become mere creeks.
The water is most important in the spring, such that they can flood each field for the rice.
We stopped along the way at the local farmers’ market. Very little comes from outside the community. What’s interesting, is all the produce is labelled with the farm it came from. So...as my guide said, she has a preference of one woman’s swiss chard over another...no pesticides...she looks for imperfect vegetables. They also have locally made edibles...I bought...what I think were rice cakes...sweet rice held in place by a thin strip of grilled tofu. Doesn’t sound very nice, but yummy. It was made by one of the ladies who worked at the market - she was very excited that someone all the way from Canada bought it. I’m not sure what makes them happier, someone from far away buying something, or that I am able to tell them in japanese that I am Canadian (the beer commercial just played in my head, “my name is Joe. And, I. Am. Canadian”)...but really, all it is, is: Watashi wa Canadajin desu.
If I were to do this trip again...I would skip Takayama & Shirakawa-Go & spend that time at Hida (hee-da) Furukawa.
We stopped for my very first Hanami (picnic with cherry blossoms). Freshly made hot tea, thin biscuits & a beautiful view. Bliss.
With all the running water, channelled through the streets, you might be forgiven for thinking of this as a poor man’s Venice...well, not really. Much cleaner, no tourists & definitely no gondolas! But love the sound of running water!
As an aside, while waiting on the two car train to get to Hida Furukawa, got to chatting with the family of four beside me (French) and two ladies opposite (Italian). Not really chatting, but trying to determine whether or not we were on the correct train. We didn’t discuss what we’d be doing when we got there, but one by one, everyone arrived at the same place. And one by one, we all visited the “facilities”.
Where I encountered my first squatter. Not as bad as I feared. Of course, it’s not called a squatter, but Japanese style vs western.
Just before we finished our tour, we biked past a local sake brewery. My guide suggested I stop by on my way back to the station, to try a sample. I did & it was better than I imagined. Cold, gentle & faintly sweet. They had no english & I didn’t have the words appropriate to the conversation. It is quite possible, I will be able to start a new career as a mime. I bought a small bottle of local sake, for after dinner.
This was more my speed. A small, sleepy town...and no tourists. The cherry blossoms were at their height. While I walked from the train station to the bicycle tour office (Satoyama Experience), I passed men standing below/in front of a second storey...garage? They were putting away a float from the parade held the day before. Each neighbourhood has its own float which they maintain for this one parade. It seemed fairly large...and heavy. Wonder how they got it in the garage...sorry...no picture.
The town is the hub for the farming community...think...Holland Marsh. Lots of water coming down from the mountains. Every street has a small channel running along it. Some large enough for Koi/carp. There are massive slip ways for the run off. During the summer, these become mere creeks.
The water is most important in the spring, such that they can flood each field for the rice.
 |
| Farm irrigation runway |
We stopped along the way at the local farmers’ market. Very little comes from outside the community. What’s interesting, is all the produce is labelled with the farm it came from. So...as my guide said, she has a preference of one woman’s swiss chard over another...no pesticides...she looks for imperfect vegetables. They also have locally made edibles...I bought...what I think were rice cakes...sweet rice held in place by a thin strip of grilled tofu. Doesn’t sound very nice, but yummy. It was made by one of the ladies who worked at the market - she was very excited that someone all the way from Canada bought it. I’m not sure what makes them happier, someone from far away buying something, or that I am able to tell them in japanese that I am Canadian (the beer commercial just played in my head, “my name is Joe. And, I. Am. Canadian”)...but really, all it is, is: Watashi wa Canadajin desu.
If I were to do this trip again...I would skip Takayama & Shirakawa-Go & spend that time at Hida (hee-da) Furukawa.
 |
| Left: Swiss chard Right: Rice cakes |
We stopped for my very first Hanami (picnic with cherry blossoms). Freshly made hot tea, thin biscuits & a beautiful view. Bliss.
 |
| Picnic view at Hida Furukawa |
With all the running water, channelled through the streets, you might be forgiven for thinking of this as a poor man’s Venice...well, not really. Much cleaner, no tourists & definitely no gondolas! But love the sound of running water!
As an aside, while waiting on the two car train to get to Hida Furukawa, got to chatting with the family of four beside me (French) and two ladies opposite (Italian). Not really chatting, but trying to determine whether or not we were on the correct train. We didn’t discuss what we’d be doing when we got there, but one by one, everyone arrived at the same place. And one by one, we all visited the “facilities”.
Where I encountered my first squatter. Not as bad as I feared. Of course, it’s not called a squatter, but Japanese style vs western.
Just before we finished our tour, we biked past a local sake brewery. My guide suggested I stop by on my way back to the station, to try a sample. I did & it was better than I imagined. Cold, gentle & faintly sweet. They had no english & I didn’t have the words appropriate to the conversation. It is quite possible, I will be able to start a new career as a mime. I bought a small bottle of local sake, for after dinner.
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| Sake from Hida Furukawa |
Saturday, 20 April 2019
Day 8 - Shirakawago, then Takayama
Poor, old Shirakawago...about an hour’s bus ride between Kanazawa and Takayama.
At some point in time, it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site...and I think that may have ruined it.
Imagine a small hamlet, completely isolated. Innocent. Idyllic. Then, bring in the tourists by the bus loads. Add in locals trying to capitalize on their good (?) fortune by selling cheap souvenirs, ice cream...whatever. Small roads choked by human foot traffic.
Awful.
The bus arrived at 10:30. I walked to the top of the hill, to the view point.
Then kept walking up.
The view WAS spectacular.
Then I walked back down...and the hoards had arrived. I walked to the farthest reaches of the village. Thought I’d better eat. Had...something...crunchy...may have been hash brown potato...or something else. No idea. Then had ice cream.
It was now 11:30. My bus wasn’t until 2:30. Now what?
So walked back to the terminal to see if I could get an earlier bus. Although, I didn’t think of that right away. Managed to (thankfully) get a bus at 1pm to Takayama.
The hotel I’m staying at, while a highrise, is configured in the old way...shoes come off upon entry & put in a locker. The hotel floors are covered in tatami mats...which, are unexpectedly and unbelievably comfortable under foot. My room is six tatami mats in size...which is the average size of a room in a traditional Japanese household. A tatami mat is 6’x3’ (ish).
Tomorrow, I’m off to a neighbouring village, for a bike tour.
At some point in time, it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site...and I think that may have ruined it.
Imagine a small hamlet, completely isolated. Innocent. Idyllic. Then, bring in the tourists by the bus loads. Add in locals trying to capitalize on their good (?) fortune by selling cheap souvenirs, ice cream...whatever. Small roads choked by human foot traffic.
Awful.
The bus arrived at 10:30. I walked to the top of the hill, to the view point.
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| View from designated view point |
Then kept walking up.
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| Terraced farm at the top of the hill |
The view WAS spectacular.
Then I walked back down...and the hoards had arrived. I walked to the farthest reaches of the village. Thought I’d better eat. Had...something...crunchy...may have been hash brown potato...or something else. No idea. Then had ice cream.
It was now 11:30. My bus wasn’t until 2:30. Now what?
So walked back to the terminal to see if I could get an earlier bus. Although, I didn’t think of that right away. Managed to (thankfully) get a bus at 1pm to Takayama.
The hotel I’m staying at, while a highrise, is configured in the old way...shoes come off upon entry & put in a locker. The hotel floors are covered in tatami mats...which, are unexpectedly and unbelievably comfortable under foot. My room is six tatami mats in size...which is the average size of a room in a traditional Japanese household. A tatami mat is 6’x3’ (ish).
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| Top: Hotel room in Takayama Bottom: View from hotel room |
Friday, 19 April 2019
Day 7 - Walking Tour of Kanazawa
I had a private guide for the day.
We started at the Omicho Market. It is a massive (mostly) fish market. All indoors. Apparently, it has become more for tourists, but locals who want to shop there, have to choose their time wisely. There are also fresh vegetables, fruits, flowers. There’s even a clothes store (can you imagine how they would smell???).
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| Omicho Market |
From there, we went to the Castle Park & then to the Kenrokeun Garden - we were so fortunate to be able to have a lunch set overlooking the old garden. (No squid!) We ate kneeling on tatami mats at a low table...yes, parts went numb. But I didn’t realize this until it was time to get up. The view was mesmerizing.
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| Lunch view at Kenrokeum Garden |
We spent time in the samurai district & visited a house of a samurai - still owned by his descendents. There was to be a concert played there...while we waited, we were treated to an informal tea ceremony. This spot was off the beaten track - my guide acted as interpreter. Our hostess was wonderful & very cheery...with a wonderful sense of humour. Earlier, the tea ceremony had been explained to me.
A hostess would invite friends for tea. Before this, lots of planning takes place. Make the garden just so; select special cups for the tea; Hang an interesting print on the wall; make a simple arrangement of flowers (no more than 3). It is important that the guest notice and comment on all these things. The ceremony takes place while on ones knees. Our hostess zips back & forth from the kitchen on her knees. Not crawling...but pulling herself forwards. I couldn’t help noticing she was wearing stockings/tights. I wondered how she managed not to get runs...this was relayed to our hostess...but not until the end...after we had asked about the tea cups, flowers and wall hanging. This woman was delightful!
After tea, we were treated to a concert of an ichigenkin (15 string instrument) & chicusen (large bamboo “flute”). I did not expect to enjoy the music. But I did. Afterwards, we went up to thank the the woman who played the strings (a older man played the “flute”). She offered to show me how to play. Complete with putting the picks on my fingers.
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| Ichigenkin & its musician |
I will not be giving up my day job.
Our last stop before heading back to the hotel, was a visit to the Geisha district. I’m still not completely sure what a Geisha is...other than a respected entertainer of men. Who put on shows in a building called a “tea house”...and work for madames.
Nope. Don’t truly understand...I think I do...but then I don’t. And no, I didn’t ask.
Bonus marks for anyone who can guess what these are for. They run down the middle of the streets. Clue: They only are used in the winter (if required).
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| Mysterious objects in the middle of the street |
Day 6 (evening) - Kanazawa
Last night, I decided to have dinner in the hotel. Thought I’d go for the safe option of the “european” diningroom. Had the place to myself. Very elegant surroundings & spectacular view.
I was asked before I was seated to select which set menu I would like & if I had any allergies. Nope. None. I also upgraded the meat from rump steak to filet.
I was presented with my own menu (to keep) & wine list (not to keep). I ordered a glass of pink champagne. For you, Charles. Or for you, Sandy. Or maybe, just maybe...for me.
As each dish arrived, it was explained what it was & the various ingredients. The second dish I encountered was squid. Two of them. Small, but formidable. Tentacles. Eyebrows. The lot. Mum would have been proud. Yes, I ate them. As I write this, it still gives me the ooglies. So I think I’ll just gloss over that for now.
There were many other yummy things. The beef, especially. I had a glass of Cab/Merlot.
Finished off with sweets and tea.
I now know, that for future reference...I have an allergy to squid.
PS - as entertainment (before the sun set completely) I watched two cruise ships leave.
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| Sunset over the Sea of Japan |
I was asked before I was seated to select which set menu I would like & if I had any allergies. Nope. None. I also upgraded the meat from rump steak to filet.
I was presented with my own menu (to keep) & wine list (not to keep). I ordered a glass of pink champagne. For you, Charles. Or for you, Sandy. Or maybe, just maybe...for me.
As each dish arrived, it was explained what it was & the various ingredients. The second dish I encountered was squid. Two of them. Small, but formidable. Tentacles. Eyebrows. The lot. Mum would have been proud. Yes, I ate them. As I write this, it still gives me the ooglies. So I think I’ll just gloss over that for now.
There were many other yummy things. The beef, especially. I had a glass of Cab/Merlot.
Finished off with sweets and tea.
 |
| Menu |
I now know, that for future reference...I have an allergy to squid.
PS - as entertainment (before the sun set completely) I watched two cruise ships leave.
Recap, Odds & Ends...
If today is Friday, this must be Kanazawa.
A week ago today...or was it a week ago yesterday...tomorrow, this adventure began?
This is the problem with time travel (crossing the international date line).
Oh well...Trip so far: Vancouver, BC; Tokyo, Kawagicho (Mt Fuji), Matsumoto, Nagano (4 hour stop) & now Kanazawa. Today I have a private guide to take me around the city. Wonder how many steps THAT will be?!
A quick recap on yesterday: I stopped off at Nagano, site of the 1998 Winter Olympics. Walked from the station up towards the Temple.
While walking the grounds around the temple, passed numerous monks along the way...I came upon what appeared to be a photo shoot:
Things learned along the way:
- In Tokyo, there are designated “pink” train cars during rush hour, for women only.
- Some rail lines/stations where there aren’t conductors/guards, music plays instead of bells or whistles, to warn passengers that the doors are closing.
- oddly, while we are very sensitive about cultural appropriation, here, you can rent kimonos.
- on the roads, sidewalks, train platforms, and inside buildings there are raised patterns on the ground, for the blind.
- I’m not sure if it is everywhere, but taxis are flat rate in Matsumoto.
- Train conductors bow when they enter a carriage, and before leaving, turn and bow.
Enough random thoughts...for now...
A week ago today...or was it a week ago yesterday...tomorrow, this adventure began?
This is the problem with time travel (crossing the international date line).
Oh well...Trip so far: Vancouver, BC; Tokyo, Kawagicho (Mt Fuji), Matsumoto, Nagano (4 hour stop) & now Kanazawa. Today I have a private guide to take me around the city. Wonder how many steps THAT will be?!
A quick recap on yesterday: I stopped off at Nagano, site of the 1998 Winter Olympics. Walked from the station up towards the Temple.
 |
| The above marks the spot where crowds would celebrate the winners |
While walking the grounds around the temple, passed numerous monks along the way...I came upon what appeared to be a photo shoot:
 |
| Photo shoot |
Things learned along the way:
- In Tokyo, there are designated “pink” train cars during rush hour, for women only.
- Some rail lines/stations where there aren’t conductors/guards, music plays instead of bells or whistles, to warn passengers that the doors are closing.
- oddly, while we are very sensitive about cultural appropriation, here, you can rent kimonos.
- on the roads, sidewalks, train platforms, and inside buildings there are raised patterns on the ground, for the blind.
- I’m not sure if it is everywhere, but taxis are flat rate in Matsumoto.
- Train conductors bow when they enter a carriage, and before leaving, turn and bow.
Enough random thoughts...for now...
Wednesday, 17 April 2019
On the move...
...to the Japanese Alps.
Up before the sun, a misty morning for sunrise.
Before I forget, I was wrong (yes, stop the presses)...there was another, more patient way of capturing Mt Fuji. This, the most restful. No peace signs or ice cream required
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| Best way to capture Mt Fuji |
A fond farewell to Fuji-San...but before I move on, I should post a picture of the “cabins” where I stayed. But…I can’t! Highly recommend the hotel. Great location: Hoshinoya Fuji.
Today’s journey, required two completely different trains. The first, a wooden floored commuter train, which didn’t seem to put much distance between me & Mt Fuji.
I think all it did, was take me to the outer edge of the Mt Fuji/Five Lakes district. The next train, was something out of the future. Very high tech. Sorry, no photograph.
I did, however, snag a photo of a more whimsical train...
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| Top: Wooden commuter train |
Bottom: Train with a dash of whimsy
Thomas the Tank engine is very big in the Fuji-Q (Fujikyu) area. All the stations along the Fujikyu line have one of the engines featured in their signage.
Made it unscathed to Matsumoto. Wandered around & visited the local castle.
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| Matsumoto castle |
Everyone needs more castles and cherry blossoms! Note the colour of the moat. Just right for St Patrick’s Day. Eeeeew.
Made it to 9:45pm last night. Aiming for 10pm! On the move again tomorrow...
Tuesday, 16 April 2019
Fuji two
I knew I wouldn’t be able to sleep in...not with that spectacular view waiting for me! In the wee hours of the morning, I opened the curtains, such that I would be up before the sun. Sometime before 5am, in jammies, bare feet & camera in tow I went out onto the balcony and snuggled under the heated duvet.
I was not disappointed.
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| Mt Fuji at 5am |
Although, there wasn’t a hope of falling back to sleep. So, up, showered, dressed & back out to the balcony. And to wait for my breakfast box to arrive.
It came in a traditional fishing box. With soup, salad, quiche, yoghurt (with granola & honey to be added), a big, fresh bun, peach jam, and a thermos of tea.
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| Traditional fishing box containing breakfast |
It was then time to work off breakfast...and last night’s dinner. Walked up the hill to the lobby/diningroom and out the other side. And up farther, to the cloud deck. Was given the opportunity to split wood (because I can), and managed to shame a few others to do the same.
Then off for a little walk in the woods. Far too short to work off even part of a meal.
So, back down to my room & called for a lift down to reception. They don’t want you walking on the perilously steep drive. From there, I walked down to the lake and followed the path along the shore, towards the Sakura Festival.
So many people, out with cameras, tripods and phones...not to mention selfie sticks. Looking for the perfect picture (too late, everyone! I have it!).
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| Mt Fuji framed by Sakura (cherry blossom) |
For the less serious photographers, there were two poses: Both hands held up high, presumably framing Mt Fuji; holding a soft serve ice cream cone in the picture.
Nope. Don’t get it.
I also don’t get the whole selfie thing...I don’t need to prove I was there. If there’s a picture in my camera...I was there!
Big nap this afternoon...after the long, invigorating walk along the shore and less invigorating afternoon spent on the balcony...hoping to stay awake past 9:30pm! Lofty goal, I know.
(Hopefully) low stress travel day, tomorrow.
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